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Nothing mysterious, as it turns out. It is simply sesame – the darker, unhulled kind, cousin to the pale seeds scattered on your burger bun that you have never once given a second thought. Roast them, grind them down, and you end up with either a fine powder or a thick, fudgy paste that behaves rather like tahini’s sibling. The flavour is nutty with a slight bitter edge, and once sugar gets involved, it takes on a deep, almost caramelised quality that is hard not to like. The flavour is only half the story, though. This stuff photographs like a dream. That charcoal-grey colour pops against white porcelain or golden pastry dough, and let us be honest – in a world where half our food choices are secretly Instagram decisions, that matters more than most of us would care to admit.