Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second Milan outing for Fendi, titled Smokeshow, leaned straight into this mood. Inspired by Italian performer Raffaella Carrà, the collection moved between nightclub and bedroom energy, with black, sheer, airy dresses, plunging necklines and backless cuts. Lace lingerie pieces sat right on the surface of the clothes instead of underneath them. These were paired with feathers and fringe for extra drama. The message was simple: Underwear is no longer something to hide, it is the outfit.
