The mains on the other end are a different proposition altogether. The Tuscan-style pork belly with carrot purée, green apple and dill salad is art on a plate. The knife goes through the pork like butter on hot toast, and the carrot purée is so good that, honestly, it deserves to be drunk out of a glass. Across the meat dishes, there is a noticeable distinction in both texture and flavour, beyond just feeling uniformly rich. The grilled seabass with Sicilian caponata and crispy potato scales takes the same approach in a lighter direction, while the menu also moves through roast chicken with creamy polenta and green peppercorn jus, pan-fried John Dory with sultana and aromatic herb sauce, confit duck leg and Australian rack of lamb. This might feel like a lot but the menu stops just short of being overdone, still committed to its restricted but authentic specialties.
