That willingness to explore is evident in the food he brought to the capital for the recent collaboration between his Mumbai restaurant Ode, and Sorrento, at Shangri-La Eros. The menu was a neat demonstration of what he meant by new interpretations: familiar flavours and textures nudged into unexpected territory, without losing sight of the ingredients themselves. A burnt cucumber arrives sharpened by kiwi salsa and peanut thecha; charred prawns find their brightness in mojo verde, crisp shallots and lime. There is a spinach and goat cheese agnolotti, softened by the sweetness of snap peas and finished with a sharp parmesan wafer, before the mains move between charred cabbage served over leek soubise with pickled celery and apple mostarda, or an Atlantic salmon slow-cooked for 48 hours, its richness cut through with pineapple glaze and a turmeric root broth. More piquant picks off the intentional menu include a roast butternut squash with smoked chilli, seed granola and pickled radish, as well as a grilled Aussie lamb chop paired with chickpea stew, served with radicchio and roasted fig. Dessert landed on either a vegan chocolate fudge cake with kumquat marmalade or some classic salted caramel tiramisu. It’s the kind of cooking that makes the idea of an ‘interpretation’, tangible, even if you’re a food purist – and that’s the real win here.
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